Time: 1 Day Pattern

Skill Level: Easy / Intermediate

Size: 5 inches / 13cm high

Gauge: Specific gauge is not as important as making close, tight stitches that do not stretch to show holes between sts.

Materials

Yarn: Rico Design Ricorumi DK (100% Cotton [58 meters] / 25 grams): 022 Powder (MC, 1 ball),063 Saffron (CC1, 1 ball), 068 Papaya (CC2, 1 ball), 040 Teal (CC3, 1 ball), 009 Coral (CC4, 1 ball)

Hook: US size D/3 (3.25 mm)

Notions: Tapestry needle, Scissors, Stitch markers, 2 x 8mm black safety eyes, Toy stuffing, black embroidery yarn, white sewing thread and needle

Pattern Notes

This pattern is worked in the amigurumi style (unless specified). Rounds are worked in a continuous spiral, use a stitch marker to indicate beginning of rounds.

Magic ring: Also known as a Drawstring Ring or Magic Loop and is often used as a start for working amigurumi. To use a magic ring in crochet, you’ll make the first round of stitches into an adjustable loop. Then, simply pull the yarn tail to close up the loop nice and tight. If you are not familiar with this technique you could substitute with a ch 2 and then work in the second ch from the hook.

Invisible Join Technique for motifs: You can use any yarn to join your motifs, for this pattern I used sewing thread as I wanted a really tight seam suitable for amigurumi purposes. Line up your squares, right side facing downwards, so that the stitches are always being sewn one for one. Insert your needle through the chain stitch of the first square then proceed through the back loop of each st across the row until you get to the other corner; maintain a tight-ish tension, but not pulling it so tight that it puckers – you just want the join to become virtually invisible. Your thread should weave in and out of your squares, you will never bring the yarn over the seam of your motifs, you should work back and forth under the loops. Continue in this way until all your motifs are joined.

Pattern

Rnd 1: With CC2 make a magic ring (adjustable ring), work 6 sc into the ring, do not pull the centre ring too tightly closed as you will need space to add a safety eye through the center (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Work 2 sc in each st around. (12 sts)

Fasten off but leave a long yarn tail.

Ears (Make 2)

Ears are not stuffed;

Rnd 1: With CC2, make a magic ring (adjustable ring), work 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Work 2 sc in each st around. (12 sts)

Rnd 3: *Sc in next st, 2 sc; rep from * around. (18 sts)

Rnd 4 – 6: Work sc in each st around.

Rnd 7: *Sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog; rep from * around. (15 sts)

Rnd 8: Work sc in each st around.

Rnd 9: *Sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog; rep from * around. (12 sts)

Rnd 10: Work sc in each st around.

Rnd 11: *Sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog; rep from * around. (9 sts)

Rnd 12: Work sc in each st around.

Fasten off but leave a long yarn tail.

Arm and Foot Pads (Make 4)

Rnd 1: With CC2, make a magic ring (adjustable ring), work 8 sc into the ring. (8 sts)

Fasten off but leave a long yarn tail.

Arms (Make 2)

Rnd 1: With MC, make a magic ring (adjustable ring), work 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Work 2 sc in each st around. (12 sts)

Rnd 3 – 8: Sc in each st around.

Rnd 9: *Sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog; rep from * around. (10 sts)

Rnd 10: Sc in each st around.

Attach a foot pad to the bottom of the arms; embroider on 3 finger pads on with CC2 using the photos as a guide.

Stuff the bottom of the arms only.

Fasten off but leave a long yarn tail.

Legs (Make 2)

Rnd 1: With MC, make a magic ring (adjustable ring), work 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Work * 2 sc in next 2 sts, 1 sc in the next st * each st around. (10 sts)

Rnd 3: Work * 2 sc in next 3 sts, 1 sc in the next 2 sts * each st around. (16 sts)

Rnds 4 – 5: Sc in each st around.

Rnd 6: Sc2tog 4 times, 1 sc in 8 sts. (12 sts)

Rnd 7: Sc2tog 3 times, 1 sc in 6 sts. (9 sts)

Rnd 8 – 10: Sc in each st around.

Attach a foot pad to the bottom of the feet; embroider on 3 toe pads on with CC2 using photos as a guide.

Stuff the bottom of the legs only.

Fasten off but leave a long yarn tail.

Motifs

Make 3 in each color,

Rnd 1: With CC make a magic ring (adjustable ring), work 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Work 2 sc in each st around. (12 sts)

Rnd 3: Sc in next st, *(sc, ch 1, sc) in the next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts; rep from * 3 times, 1 sc in the next st. (16 sts, 4 x ch1-sps)

Fasten off and weave in ends

Join your squares in to a panel using the following schematic:

Then join the panel’s two short ends to form a tube:

Body

Rnd 1: With MC; working on the top of the squares, working sc in each st and sc2tog over each join in the chain spaces. (30 sts).

Rnds 2 – 9: Sc in each st around.

Rnd 10: *Sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog; rep from * around. (24 sts)

Rnd 11: *Sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog; rep from * around. (18 sts)

Rnd 12: *Sc in next 1 sts, sc2tog; rep from * around. (12 sts)

Rnd 13: *Sc2tog in next st; rep from * around. (6 sts)

Fasten off and use the yarn tail to sew up the last 6 sts.

Insert eye with patch in-between rnds 6 – 7, add the other eye approx. 5 sts away from the patch. Embroider a nose on rnd 5, add lines for mouth over rnds 2-4 using photos as a guide.

Rnd 14: Reattach MC on the other side of your panel and repeat rnd 1. (30 sts)

Rnd 15: Sc in each st around.

Start to stuff; continue to stuff as you go.

Rnd 16: *Sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog; rep from * around. (24 sts)

Rnd 17: *Sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog; rep from * around. (18 sts)

Rnd 18: *Sc in next 1 sts, sc2tog; rep from * around. (12 sts)

Rnd 19: *Sc2tog in next st; rep from * around. (6 sts)

Tail

Rnd 1: With MC, make a magic ring (adjustable ring), work 5 sc into the ring, (5 sts)

Rnds 2 – 5: Sc in each st around.

Rnd 6: 2sc in next st, Sc in each st around. 6 sts

Fasten off but leave a long yarn tail.

Making up

Attach the ears on the top of the head (approx. Rnd 12, 6 sts apart).

Whipstitch the sides of the arms together and then attach two arms to the bottom of body.

Whipstitch the sides of the legs together and then attach two legs to the bottom of body.

Attach the tail to the back of the pup.