The Hailey Hooded Cardigan crochet pattern, a captivating and customizable project that allows you to take the beloved granny square pattern to new heights. If you love the rhythm of the granny square and want to explore its potential further, this pattern offers a unique and individualized approach. The construction of this cardigan adds an intriguing twist to the classic stitch pattern. It is worked in the round in two pieces, which are then joined and worked flat. This innovative approach keeps the construction interesting and engaging, making it an ideal project for crocheters seeking a challenge.

Skill Level: Intermediate/Advanced

Size: Adult Small/Medium (Large)

Gauge: 16 sts and 24 rows = 4” [10 cm] in Single Crochet

Materials

Yarn: Universal Yarn, Cassatt (35% Baby Alpaca, 35% Wool, 20% Nylon, 10% Viscose; 120 yards [110 meters]/50 grams): #604 Water Lilies (19 (23) skeins)

Hook:  US Size I (5.5 mm)

Notions: Tapestry needle, 5 locking stitch markers, two of color A, two of color B, one of color C, two of color E

Pattern Notes

Worked with the right side facing each of the two hexagons is worked from the center out.

Ch 3 at beginning of each round counts as a double crochet.

“Ch-2 space” into which the first two dc are worked is the last ch-2 space of the round just completed, the ch-3 at the beginning of the round sits just at the top of that ch-2 space and the two dc worked into the space will present as a 3 dc cluster when blocked, practice on your swatch.

3 dc forms a cluster.

When working the rounds to form a hexagon, the number of clusters/shells is a multiple of 6. On round 1 – 6 clusters; 6 x1 = 6, on round 2 – 12 clusters; 6×2=12. When working in rounds you will know which round you are on if you count the number of clusters in a round and divide the total number by 6.  If it is not divisible by 6, you have worked a round incorrectly somewhere in the hexagon.

There are only 6 sets of ch-2 spaces on any given round, these form the corners of the hexagon.

Pattern

Bodice (Make 2)

Ch 4 join with slip stitch to form a ring.

Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc here and throughout), 2 dc, ch 1, *3 dc, ch 1, rep from * five times, 3 dc, ch 1, join with slip stitch to top of initial ch 3.  (6 3-dc clusters)

Rnd 2: Ch 3, 2 dc into first ch-1 space (the last ch-1 sp from previous round), *(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into the next ch-1 space, rep from * five times, 3 dc in first ch-1 sp, ch 2, join to top of initial ch-3. (12 3-dc clusters)

Rnd 3: Ch 3, 2 dc into the first ch-2 space, *3 dc between next two 3-dc clusters, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into ch-2 sp, repeat from * to last ch-2 sp, 3 dc in this space, ch 2, slip stitch to join to top of ch-3 at beginning of this round. (18 3-dc clusters)

Rnd 4: Ch 3, 2 dc into the first ch-2 space, *3 dc between each 3-dc clusters to ch-2 sp, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into ch-2 sp, repeat from * to last ch-2 sp, 3 dc in this space, ch 2, slip stitch to join to top of ch-3 at beginning of this round. (inc 6 3-dc clusters)

Repeat round 4 until a total of 18 (22) rounds are completed. (108 (132) 3-dc clusters)

Place marker to denote the ch-2 sp of the last corner worked. Place marker to denote opposing corner.

Make second hexagon. (108 (132) 3-dc clusters)

With RS facing, hold the two markers and fold the piece forming it into an L.

Repeat for second hexagon.

With RS facing, set the two L’s side by side such that all four markers are clustered at the top with A1 and A2 atop each other, and B1 and B2 atop each other, each set next to each other, see diagram.  Fold the outer two markers and corresponding sides back such that one marker from each piece is still facing you and you see the WS of the fabric. Using the mattress stitch sew a seam to join the two hexagons along this edge, denoted in the diagram as C connecting to A1B1. This seam is the back seam. Place a marker at point C to denote the point at which the seam for the back was started, it now marks the middle of the back.  The length of the sweater will be increased from C down to the desired total length when this portion of the sweater is worked flat.

With the RS facing, working flat from the edge of the hexagon at which B2 was at the top when the seam was worked, denoted as E1 in the diagram, pick up a loop and continue as follows:

Row 1 (RS): Ch 3, dc in ch-2 sp, sk 3 dc, *3 dc cluster into space between two 3-dc clusters of round below (this is the space formed in the round below by two 3-dc clusters), rep from * to end of row at point E2, skip 1 st, dc in second ch of the last round worked below. (36 (44) 3-dc clusters, plus one “split cluster” formed by ch 3, dc at beginning of row and dc at end which will blend more easily with the edging as it is worked)

Row 2 (WS): Ch 3, dc between last 2 dc of previous row, *3 dc cluster into space formed in the row below between two 3-dc clusters, rep from * to final 3-dc cluster, 3 dc into sp between final 3-dc cluster and 2 dc at end of row, dc into top of turning chain.

Row 3 (RS): Ch 3, dc between last 2 dc of previous row, *3 dc cluster into space formed in the row below between two 3-dc clusters, rep from * to final 3-dc cluster, 3 dc into sp between final 3-dc cluster and 2 dc at end of row, dc into top of turning chain.

Repeat rows 2-3 a total of 6 (8) times or until the total length from the top of the seam in the back to the bottom of the hem is 3″/7.5cm (5″/12.5cm) shorter than the desired length.

Fasten off yarn having just completed a RS row. Place E1 and E2 markers to denote the beginning and end of this final row. These markers will be used for reference points when working on the trim.

Position work in front of you with the E1 and E2 markers closest to you and the A1, A2, B1, B2 markers the furthest away from you and RS facing with the two WS facing each other, it will look like a T, see diagram.

Sleeve from middle of arm to cuff

Row 1 (RS): Working from the point denoted as S1 on the diagram, it is a corner formed by the ch-2 sp of the hexagon, ch 3, dc in ch-2 sp, continue in pattern creating 3-dc clusters between the 3-dc clusters of the last round of one side of the hexagon ending at the next ch-2 sp, dc in ch-2 sp. Turn work. (17 (21) 3 dc clusters, plus one “split cluster” formed by ch 3, dc at beginning of row and dc at end which will present as a single cluster when seamed)

Row 2 (WS): Ch 3, dc between last 2 dc of previous row, *3 dc cluster into space formed in the row below between two 3-dc clusters, rep from * to final 3-dc cluster, 3 dc into sp between final 3-dc cluster and 2 dc at end of row, dc into top of turning chain.

Row 3 (RS): Ch 3, dc between last 2 dc of previous row, *3 dc cluster into space formed in the row below between two 3-dc clusters, rep from * to final 3-dc cluster, 3 dc into sp between final 3-dc cluster and 2 dc at end of row, dc into top of turning chain.

Repeat rows 2 – 3 a total of 6 (8) times or until the total length from the top of the seam in the back to the cuff of the sleeve is 3″/7.5cm (5″/12.5cm) shorter than the desired length.  Fasten off.

Seam along selvedge edge from end of last stitch worked up sleeve to 4″ from seam at middle of the back to form sleeve.

Repeat for second sleeve.

Hood

With RS facing, at position A1 pull up loop.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 3, dc in ch-2 sp, sk 3 dc, *3 dc cluster (this is the space formed in the round below by two 3-dc clusters), sk 3 dc, rep from * to end of row at point B1, skip 1 st, dc in second ch of the last round worked below.

Row 2 (WS): Ch 3, dc between last 2 dc of previous row, *3 dc cluster into space formed in the row below between two 3-dc clusters, rep from * to final 3-dc cluster, 3 dc into sp between final 3-dc cluster and 2 dc at end of row, dc into top of turning chain.

Row 3 (RS): Ch 3, dc between last 2 dc of previous row, *3 dc cluster into space formed in the row below between two 3-dc clusters, rep from * to final 3-dc cluster, 3 dc into sp between final 3-dc cluster and 2 dc at end of row, dc into top of turning chain.

Repeat rows 2 – 3 a total of eleven (thirteen) times or until the total length from the top of the seam in the back where A2 and B2 meet to the top of the hood measures desired length.

Final Row: Ch 2, hdc across.

With RS facing, fold hood in half and using mattress stitch, sew the top of the hood along the stitches which formed the last row.

Edging (worked in the round)

With RS facing at E1, pull up a loop.

Rnd 1: 2 hdc in this st, then 1 hdc into each st along the last row of the hem and in position E2, work two hdc in E2, place marker, into the same stitch to facilitate turning the corner to work up the front work two hdc into the selvedge edge of the dc which comprise the hem then upon reaching the ch-2 sp of the last round of the original hexagon, hdc once into this ch-2 sp, and continue working one hdc into each st to the hood where two hdc are worked into the selvedge edge of row ends which comprise the hood.  Continue hdc in this manner down the second side of the piece and back to E2. This constitutes the end/beginning of the Rnd, mark this position with a marker.

Rnd 2: Hdc into back loop beginning with 2 hdc through the back loop of the first st then one hdc into back loop of each until the next marker at which point work 2 hdc through the back loop and continue in pattern to end of round.

Repeat Rnd 2 until hem measures 2.5″/7cm. On last round end two sts short of the end of round marker, 1 sc, sl st, fasten off and weave in end.

Finishing

Gently steam finished shawl to relax the transitions between working flat and in the round as well as all seams.