Time:
Weekend Project

Skill Level: Intermediate

Size: Hat size 1, 2, 3 (Note, hats are styled with negative ease. They should be just a tiny bit smaller than the head so they stretch to fit and don’t blow off. The stitch used in this hat will stretch comfortably up to 2 inches if worked to the stated gauge, so the right fit will be the finished size between the exact size of the child’s head and 2 inches smaller.

Mits size 1, 2, 3

Gauge: 3 pattern repeats (18 stitches) = 4 inches

8 pattern repeats (16 rows) = 4 inches

Materials

Yarn: Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash Merino (100% merino wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100g): 86 Antique Green (MC, 1 (1, 1) balls), 90 Pastel Turquoise  (CC, 1 (1, 1) balls)

(Note on yarn quantities: one ball of each color will make the set up to the largest size, and leave enough of the contrast color for a PomPom. To make the PomPom in the main color, a second ball will be needed.)

Hook: US size G/6 (4.0 mm)

Notions: Stitch Markers, tapestry needle, pompom maker and extra yarn or commercial Pom Pom

Special Stitches

Spike stitch

The spike stitch is an easy stitch which gives an extra pop of color to the row.

A spike stitch is a single crochet stitch, but it is worked into the row below. You draw the yarn up so the top of the stitch is exactly where the top would be for a normal single crochet.

Image 1 here. – spike st.

Invisible join. When working in the round, the basic method is to slip stitch join to the top of the turning chain. This leaves a visible seam and causes the work to ‘bias’ – which means the seam doesn’t stay straight. In this pattern an invisible join is used to hide the seam and keep it straight. If you do not wish to try out this technique, you can still follow the pattern with a normal join, but be aware that you will sometimes need to start a round on a different stitch in the sequence.

To create an invisible join

Step 1: After working the last stitch in the round, pull up the loop, and remove the hook. From the back of the work, insert the hook into the top of the first stitch (NOT into the top of the turning chain). Pull the stitch through from front to back.

Image 2 – invisible join

Step 2: On alternate rounds, you will now work into the stitch before the join. In the pattern for the main body, you will work all Contrast Color rounds into the stitch after the join, and main color rounds into the stitch before the join. When working the brim and cuff, which are all in main color, you can alternate each row.

Image 3 – keeping a straight seam

Pattern Notes

Starting chain does not count as stitch.

Securing yarn – The color stripes are worked by carrying strands up the inside. Yarn is secured either with a stitch marker or by fastening off – pull up a large loop and pull the ball of yarn through to create a secure knot so that color doesn’t unravel while working the other color.

This pattern is available in 3 sizes. Children’s head and hand sizes can vary greatly, the schematic and size chart should help you pick the right size. Age ranges are a rough guide only.

Crochet Shorthand: 

• When the number is before the abbreviation it means to increase a stitch. For example: 2 sc means to work 2 single crochet in the next stitch.
• When the number follows the abbreviation it means to work in the following number of stitches. For example: sc 2 means to work 1 single crochet in each of the next 2 stitches.

Image 4 – stitch chart.

Hat

Ear Flaps

Make 2.

Ch 8.
Row 1: In CC, RS, starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc, hdc, dc 3, hdc, sc. Secure yarn, do not disconnect. Do not turn. (7 sts)

Row 2: In MC, RS, 2 sc in first st, sc 5, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (9 sc)

Row 3: Draw up CC, ch 2, (dc, hdc) in same st, sc, hdc, dc 3, hdc, sc, (hdc, dc) in same st. Secure yarn. Do not turn.  (11 sts)

Row 4: Draw up MC, 2 sc in first st, sc, spike stitch, sc 5, spike stitch, sc, 2 sc in last st.  (13 sts) Secure yarn, turn.

Row 5:  Draw up CC. Ch 2, (hdc, sc) in same st, hdc, dc 3, hdc, sc, hdc, dc 3, hdc, (sc, hdc) in same st. Secure yarn, do not turn. (15 sts)

Row 6: Draw up MC. 2 sc in first st, *spike st, sc 5, repeat from * once, spike st, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (17 sts)

Row 7: Draw up CC. Ch 2. 2 hdc in first st, *dc 3, hdc, sc, hdc, repeat from * once, dc 3, 2 hdc in last st. Secure yarn, turn. (19 sts)

Row 8: Draw up MC. Ch 1, sc 6, spike st, sc 5, spike st, sc 6, Secure yarn, do not turn.

Row 9: Draw up CC, ch 2, dc 2, *hdc, sc, hdc, dc 3, repeat from * once. Hdc, sc, hdc, dc 2. Do not turn.

Row 10:  MC. Sc 3, spike st (sc 5, spike st) twice, sc 3. Turn.

Row 11: CC. Sc, hdc, *dc 3, hdc, sc, hdc, repeat from * twice, omitting last hdc. Do not turn.

Row 12. MC. Sc 6, spike, sc 5, spike, sc 6.

Ear flap edging

Rotate work. In MC, sc around edges of flap by *working 1 sc into side of each sc row, 2 sc into side of each hdc or dc row* to base, sc into starting chain to center, 2 sc into starting ch of center stitch, 1 sc into bottom of remaining stitches of first row, repeat from * to * for second side. Secure yarn and disconnect.

Hat Brim (worked in MC)

Set up/Round 1

Returning to top of ear flap, in MC, sc blo 19, ch 19 (23, 27), sc blo 19 across second ear flap, ch 15 (17, 19), join with sl st. (38 sc, 34 (40, 46) ch)

Round 2: Ch 2, *dc in each sc across ear flap, dc in each chain; repeat from * once, sl st to join using invisible join technique. stitch count: (72 (78, 84) dc.)

Round 3: Ch 2, dc in first stitch after sl st, dc around to end, join with invisible join.

Round 4: Ch 2, dc in last stitch before sl st, dc around to end, join with invisible join.

Round 5: Ch 2, dc blo in first stitch after sl st, dc blo around to end, join with invisible join.

Round 6: Repeat round 4

Round 7: Repeat round 3

Round 8: Ch 1, fold brim along blo ridge made in Rnd 5, with ear flaps on inside area of hat. Work sc into each dc from Rnd 7 and corresponding st on Rnd 1 to secure. (72 (78, 84) sc)

A hat brim is now worked, which is double thickness, and 3 rounds of dc deep, with ear flaps behind the brim.

Hat main body

Round 1: With CC, * sc, hdc, dc 3, hdc, repeat from * to end. Invisible join. (Stitch count: 12 (13, 14) pattern repeats. 72 (78, 84) stitches in total).

Note: Placing stitch markers in the post of each sc stitch for the first few rounds can be very helpful in following the stitch repeats.

Rounds 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14: With MC, ch 1, sc into stitch before join, sc each hdc and dc, spike st into each sc, repeat to end. Invisible join. (12 (13, 14) pattern repeats. 72 (78, 84) stitches in total)

Round 3: With CC, ch 2, dc into stitch after join, dc, *hdc, sc, hdc, 3 dc, repeat from * to end, omitting last dc.

Round 5: With CC, ch 1, sc into stitch after join, * hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc, repeat from * to end, omitting last sc.

Round 7, 11: repeat round 3

Round 9, 13: repeat round 5

For sizes – (2, 3) only, repeat rounds 3 and 2 once more.

For sizes – (-, 3) only, repeat rounds 5 and 2 once more.

Total rounds 12 (14, 16). For a taller hat and slouchier look, add more rounds following the sequence.

Hat top shaping/decrease rounds

Decrease Round 1. Sizes 1 (-, 3) only: With CC, ch 2, starting with stitch before join, dc3tog,

*hdc, sc, hdc, dc3tog, repeat from * to end, omitting last dc3tog.  (48 (52, 56) stitches in total)

Decrease Round 1. Sizes – (2, -) only: With CC, ch 1, sc into stitch after join, * hdc, dc3tog, hdc, sc, repeat from * to end, omitting last sc.  (48 (52, 56) stitches in total)

Decrease Round 2: With MC, ch 1, sc into stitch before join, * sc each hdc and dc3tog, spike st into each sc, repeat from * to end. Invisible join.

Decrease Round 3: With CC, hdc into each spike st, sc3tog across each 3 sc. (24 (26, 28) stitches in total)

Decrease Round 4: With MC, sc around, join with invisible join.

Decrease Round 5: With CC, hdc2tog around. Join with invisible join. (12 (14, 16) stitches)

Decrease Round 6: With MC, sc2tog around, join with sl st. (6 (7, 8) stitches). Fasten off and disconnect.

Finishing

Thread remaining strand of yarn on darning needle, and pull through remaining stitches to close. Weave in all ends. It is strongly advisable to make the mittens before making the pom pom, to be certain that enough yarn remains for mittens.

Mittens

Mittens cuff

Worked in MC

Set up: MC. Ch 17 (21, 25), join with sl st

Round 1: Ch 2, dc to end, join with invisible join.

Round 2: Ch 2, dc in first stitch after sl st, dc around to end, join with invisible join. (17 (21, 25) dc.)

Round 3: Ch 2, dc in last stitch before sl st, dc around to end, join with invisible join.

Round 4: Ch 2, dc blo in first stitch after sl st, dc blo around to end, join with invisible join.

Round 5: Repeat round 3

Round 6: Repeat round 2

Round 7: Repeat round 3

Round 8: Ch 1, fold cuff along blo ridge made in Rnd 4 behind active sts, work sc into each dc from Rnd 7 and corresponding st on Rnd 1 to secure. (17 (21, 25) sc)

Mittens Hand

Round 1: With MC, ch 1, *sc 2 (1, 1), 2 sc in next stitch, repeat from * 4 (8, 9) more times.  2 sc 2 (0, 3) times, sc 0 (3, 0) sts.  Invisible join. (24 (30, 36) sc)

Round 2: Join CC, ch 1, *sc, hdc, dc 3, hdc, repeat from * to end. Invisible join.

Rounds 3, 5, 7: With MC, ch 1, sc into stitch before join, sc each hdc and dc, spike st into each sc around. Invisible join.

Round 4: With CC, ch 2, dc into stitch after join, dc, *hdc, sc, hdc, 3dc, repeat from * to end, omitting last dc.

Round 6: With CC, repeat round 2.

Continue to work 0 (2, 4) more rounds in established sequence.

Thumb Opening Round, hand 1:  With MC, ch 1, sc into stitch before join, sc each hdc and dc, spike st into each sc to last 4 (5, 6) sts. Sk remaining sts, ch 4 (5, 6), sl st join.

Thumb Opening Round, hand 2:  With MC, ch 1, sc into stitch before join, ch 4 (5, 6), sk next 4 (5, 6) sts, sc each hdc and dc, spike st into each sc to end, invisible join.

Top section straight rounds

On next round, keep in pattern working one stitch for each chain made across thumb opening.

Starting with either round 2 or 4 depending on your size, continue to work in pattern for 10 (12, 14) rounds. 5 (6, 7) stripes from thumb opening.

Top section decreasing rounds

Decrease Round 1: With CC, following sequence for starting stitches, work hdc, sc, hdc, and work dc3tog in place of 3 dc sts. (16 (20, 24) stitches in total)

Decrease Round 2: With MC, ch 1, sc into stitch before join, sc each hdc and dc3tog, spike st into each sc to end. Invisible join. (16 (20, 24) stitches in total)

Decrease Round 3: With CC, hdc into each spike st, sc3tog across each 3 sc. (8 (10, 12) stitches in total)

Decrease Round 4: With MC, sc around, join with invisible join. (8 (10, 12) stitches)

Decrease Round 5: With CC, hdc2tog around. Join with sl st. (4, (5, 6) stitches)

Secure yarn.

Thumb section

Return to sk sts for thumb opening. Join MC, sc all sk sts, 2sc into side, sc into base of sts above opening, 2sc in side gap. 12 (14, 16 sc). Do not join, continue in a spiral, working sc into each stitch around until thumb measures 1.8 (2, 2.2) inches / 4.5 (5, 5.5) cm, or required length. Sc2tog in spiral to close, disconnect yarn, thread strand on darning needle, and pull through remaining stitches to close.

Finishing

Thread remaining strand of yarn on darning needle, and pull through remaining stitches to close. Weave in all ends.